Pale pinks and baby blues tint the sky. You wander that fields, enrobed in your thoughts. The forest on the nearby hills is already filled with night. A plover cries out nearby but otherwise you think you are alone.
You crest a hill and the scent of rose water fills the air. You are surrounded by the sound of their voices but somehow they sound distant. Glasses clink about you. There is laughter…and then it is gone.
This is one of the most ladylike fragrances the Moth Woman has ever encountered. It makes her think of Downton Abbey and high tea. Refreshing without being sharp and not too sweet, is the perfect rose for hot weather.
Surrati Musk Mutasaliq (SMM) opens with soft, wine-like roses. There is a sweetness at the back, a little musk and the suggestion of something dirty.
Fifteen minutes in, it is very quiet. The roses are antique, more like rosewater than modern blooms. A lemonade note overlays the roses, similar to the Guerlain accord that features in Shalimar and Jicky. I believe it is intended to reflect some of the complexity of older rose varieties such as hybrid perpetuals which frequently have a sharp, resinous edge that is entirely absent in modern hydrid tea roses.
An hour in and the wine element re-emerges and the lemonade accord is completely gone. Volume and projection remain the same. It opens up and develops an airy feeling at this stage. There is also now a light dusty dryness suggesting deftly-handled iris in the mix.
Two hours and there is a slight increase in
volume. It is essentially antique rose at this point.
Two and a half hours and a quality iris note overtakes the rose.
By three hours, the perfume is a delightful combination of rose and iris. The volume remains the same.
Four hours and the volume has diminished. It is closer to the skin and the scent has changed to a white musk with a rose element.
By 8 hours, it is two inches from the skin, largely unchanged in composition from four hours but the mixture is shifting toward an Arabian style white musk (classic white musk elements present in western versions plus nondescript floral notes).
At twelve hours, it is a very strong skin scent
Total longevity is more than thirteen hours.
This is a cool scent with no sharp edges and has an enjoyably melancholy element. There is a delightful, open breezy quality that the Moth Woman has only ever encountered in Arabian perfumery which is refreshing in hot weather. SMM also seems to orbit the wearer at about a foot from the body whilst not always being particularly noticeable up close or against the skin. Despite being quite a delicate scent, it is astonishingly tenacious. Twelve hours wear is easily attained even in hot weather.
The Moth Woman would recommend this scent for office settings, great longevity, an inoffensive nature and low sillage make it perfect for work. Also, because it is from Surrati’s line that is available in bulk sizes, it is excellent value for money.
Available for purchase here.